Naem (แหนม)
Sharp fermented sausage from northern and north-eastern Thailand, made from raw pork and glutinous rice. Eaten raw (after fermentation) or grilled. It differs from the sai krok Isan by its composition and its degree of fermentation.
| Lean pork, finely minced | 700 g |
| Cooked pork rind, finely shredded | 100 g |
| Cooked and cooled glutinous rice | 150 g |
| Fresh garlic, crushed | 50 g |
| Fine salt | 20 g |
| Sugar | 5 g |
| Saltpetre (potassium nitrate) | 1 g |
| Dried red chilli flakes (optional) | 5 g |
| Banana leaves or cling film for wrapping | — |
- Preparation: Mince the pork very finely through the 3 to 4 mm plate. The rind should be cooked until tender, then cooled and shredded very finely.
- Mixing: Combine the minced pork, the shredded rind, the cooked rice, the crushed garlic, the salt, the sugar and the saltpetre. Knead vigorously for 5 to 7 minutes to develop a tight bind.
- Shaping: Form rolls 10 to 15 cm long and 4 cm in diameter, or balls according to local tradition. Wrap tightly in banana leaves or cling film.
- Fermentation: Leave at room temperature (25–30 °C) for 2 to 5 days. The duration determines the level of acidity: 2 days for a light taste, 5 days for a pronounced one.
- Checking: The naem is ready when it gives off a pleasant, sharp smell and the filling is firm to the touch.
- Storage: Refrigerate after fermentation to stop the process. Keeps for 1 week in the refrigerator.
- Serving: Eat raw after fermentation (unwrapped, sliced), or pan-grill until lightly coloured. With fresh ginger, chilli, peanuts and chives.
- Note: The safety of the product depends on rapid acidification: the pH should fall below 4.6 within the first two days. On the precautions specific to raw fermentation — target acidity, the role of the saltpetre, prior freezing of the meat — see the note in the chapter 'How to read this book'.
The naem is a raw fermented sausage, of finely minced lean pork mixed with shredded rind and cooked glutinous rice, seasoned with large quantities of garlic, then wrapped in banana leaves and fermented for two to five days. Its particularity in this book is that it is eaten raw, with the natural lactic fermentation transforming the meat into a sharp and microbiologically stable product.
The fermentation rests on the naturally present lactic bacteria. The glutinous rice provides the sugars they feed on, which produce lactic acid, lowering the pH below 4.5. The garlic, at 50 grammes per kilo (a proportion higher than in most sausages in this book), plays a dual role: aromatic and bactericidal; its allicin selects for beneficial bacteria. The banana leaves protect the product while favouring the fermentation through their natural tannins.
The naem is produced throughout northern and north-eastern Thailand, in Laos and in some regions of Myanmar. The duration of fermentation determines the final acidity: the short versions are mild, the long ones sharply sour. It is also eaten cooked, after being grilled, which caramelises the surface. This is the dominant mode of consumption on the street markets, though the regulars also eat long-fermented versions without cooking.
The health concerns associated with the consumption of raw fermented pork pose an obstacle to its commercialisation in countries with strict regulations on raw meat, thereby limiting its international spread.
The book
All 144 recipes and their histories, gathered in a single volume.