Supplement to the Collection

Austria

Augsburger — Austrian brühwurst of pork, beef and potato starch, entered in the Codex Alimentarius Austriacus since 1913 and in the register of Traditionelle Lebensmittel under No. 186. Never smoked, unlike the knackwurst to which it is close, it is eaten peeled, split lengthways, scored crosswise and fried in the pan.

Burenwurst — Viennese poached sausage of coarse pork-and-beef paste, with fatback and potato starch. Also called klobasse, it established itself in the repertoire of the würstelstände at the turn of the twentieth century. Its name refers, in all likelihood, to buur / bure, the Low German or Dutch form corresponding to the standard German Bauer (peasant): a ‘peasant’s sausage’. It is the economical everyday sausage, nicknamed haasse, ‘the hot one’, in Viennese dialect.

Austrian Debreziner — Fine brühwurst of pork and beef with sweet paprika, garlic, marjoram and pepper, stuffed into sheep casing, smoked then poached. Imported to Vienna from Hungary in the second half of the nineteenth century, codified in the Codex Alimentarius Austriacus in 1921. Sold in pairs at the Viennese würstelstand, where it differs from the Hungarian version by a milder paprika.

Extrawurst — Austrian brühwurst of finely minced beef, pork and fatback, stuffed at a wide calibre into a straight casing or a ring. Known in Vienna since the 1820s and entered in the register of traditional Austrian foods, it is among the country’s most widely eaten sausages, sliced for the extrawurstsemmel (a filled roll) or in wurstsalat. It comes in several variants: the pikantwurst with peppers, the gurkerlextra with diced gherkin, or portioned into round sausages called knacker. Its German equivalent is the lyoner or fleischwurst.

Krainer wurst — Austrian version of the Slovenian kranjska klobasa (which has a dedicated entry), first written mention in 1896 in Katharina Prato’s Süddeutsche Küche. When the PGI was granted to Slovenia in 2015, a compromise allowed Austria to keep the designations käsekrainer, schweinskrainer, osterkrainer and bauernkrainer outside the scope of the Slovenian protection. The käsekrainer, filled with Emmental, is an Upper Austrian creation of the late 1960s that became a fixture of the Viennese würstelstände.

Waldviertler — Smoked poached sausage of Lower Austria, native to the forest region of the Waldviertel. A forcemeat of pork and beef with fatback, garlicky and seasoned with coriander, cumin, marjoram and allspice. Characterised by a double smoking that gives it its dark colour. With the Frankfurter, the käsekrainer and the burenwurst, it makes up the standard repertoire of the Viennese würstelstände, whose culture was inscribed on the Austrian inventory of intangible cultural heritage (UNESCO) in 2024.

Belgium

Bloedworst — Flemish blood sausage of pig’s blood and fatback, bound with breadcrumbs or flour, sometimes enriched with offal. Also called beuling or zwarte pens, it is sold in the region as a large sausage to slice or in a finer casing, the size of a banana. Served pan-fried with apple compote in the estaminets, a tradition shared with the Netherlands.

Boudin blanc de Liège — Liège white pudding of lean pork and fat, milk, eggs and breadcrumb, flavoured with marjoram (Origanum majorana), which constitutes its distinctive signature and sets it apart from other white puddings. PGI since 2025.

France

Crépinette — Sausage meat wrapped in caul (pig’s peritoneum) rather than in a casing, formed into a flattened patty. Served grilled or pan-fried. The technique of the stuffed caul has several parallel regional forms: caillette of the Drôme and the Ardèche, where the meat is enriched with greens (spinach, chard or salad); attriau of the Chablais and the Faucigny, of pork offal; fricandeau in the Lozère, attereau in Burgundy.

Galabart / Galabar — Blood sausage of south-west France enriched with pig’s-head meat and rinds (its name comes from the Occitan goula, ‘head’), which sets it apart from the classic blood sausage. Produced in the Ariège, the Hautes-Pyrénées, the Tarn, the Aveyron and Aquitaine, sometimes with added bread in the Monts de Lacaune or onions in the Aveyron Ségala. Often dried to prolong its keeping. Served pan-fried, with apples or chestnuts.

Gendarme — Alsatian sausage, smoked and long-dried, sold in flat pairs of rectangular section obtained by pressing between boards, scented with caraway. French variant of the German and Swiss-German landjäger, introduced by the settlers who came to repeople the region after the Thirty Years’ War. Eaten raw as a snack, it traditionally enters the sauerkraut and the hotpots, where it recovers its rounded form in cooking.

Sabodet — Large cooking sausage of Dauphiné origin — has become emblematic of the Lyonnais table and the Beaujolais, of boned pig’s head (cheeks, tongue, snout, ears) and coarsely chopped rinds, whose name evokes the flared shape, recalling a clog (sabot). Hand-tied, poached in barely simmering water or braised in red wine in the codified sabodet au vin rouge version, and served in thick slices with potatoes. Distinctive texture blending the softness of the cheeks and tongue with the crunch of the ear cartilages. Emblematic dish of the Lyon bouchons.

Germany

German sausages are traditionally classed in three categories defined by the method of preparation: the brühwurst, scalded in hot water or steam after stuffing (the frankfurter würstchen, bockwurst, weißwurst, currywurst); the kochwurst, whose ingredients are pre-cooked before stuffing and then cooked again, often based on offal, blood or cereals (the leberwurst, blutwurst and all the grützwurst); and the rohwurst, raw sausage that is salted, fermented, dried or cold-smoked, eaten as it is or used as an ingredient (the mettwurst, the teewurst and the salamis). The number of regional varieties is in the hundreds, with no exhaustive and verifiable official census available.

Bierschinken — Large finely minced pork brühwurst, studded with cubes of lean ham and pistachios, stuffed at a wide calibre. Sliced for the brotzeit (the traditional Bavarian snack) or for cold buffets. Its name evokes beer not as an ingredient but as the traditional accompaniment: the sausage is served at afternoon refreshments, with beer.

Bierwurst — Smoked Bavarian brühwurst of pork and beef, with garlic, paprika and mustard seeds, the paprika giving it its characteristic dark red colour. Salted, smoked, and then poached, it is sold sliced as a cold-cut aperitif and traditionally accompanies beer, from which it takes its name, without containing any.

Blutwurst — German blood sausage of pig’s blood, fatback and onions, seasoned with marjoram, allspice and cloves, sometimes nutmeg or thyme. Stuffed into hog casing and poached, it is eaten cold in slices or pan-fried. A central ingredient of the Rhenish dish Himmel und Erde (mashed potato and apple compote), attested from the eighteenth century. Known under other regional names: Rotwurst, Schwarzwurst, Topfwurst, Flönz in the Rhineland.

Bregenwurst — Lightly smoked sausage of raw minced pork from Lower Saxony and Saxony-Anhalt, whose name comes from the Low German bregen (brain), an ingredient removed from the composition since 2000 in the wake of the BSE crisis. Eaten raw or simmered in grünkohl (curly kale), in which it takes on a spreadable consistency. Served in winter with potatoes.

Eichsfelder feldgieker PGI — Air-dried raw sausage of the Eichsfeld, straddling Thuringia, Lower Saxony and Hesse, PGI since 2013. First written mention in 1718. A forcemeat of lean pork and fatback, stuffed into a pig’s bladder and dried for six months to a year. Like the Nordhessische ahle wurscht, it belongs to warmfleischverarbeitung (working the meat while still warm, within four hours of slaughter), a technique now practised at artisanal scale only in these two regions.

Frankfurter rindswurst — All-beef sausage, poached then briefly smoked over beechwood, created in Frankfurt in 1894 by the butcher Karl Gref and his wife to serve the local Jewish clientele in keeping with kashrut. The strict separation between beef butchers and pork butchers, in force until 1864, had until then prevented the appearance of an all-beef Frankfurt sausage.

Fränkische bratwurst — Coarsely minced pork bratwurst of Franconia, 10 to 20 cm long, seasoned with marjoram, pepper and nutmeg, grilled or pan-fried. Sold in a small round roll, in pairs or in threes, it can also be served as saure zipfel, simmered in a broth of vinegar, onion and juniper berries.

Gelbwurst — Finely minced brühwurst of southern Germany (Bavaria, Württemberg, the Black Forest), made from pork, veal and fatback, flavoured with ginger, nutmeg, cardamom and lemon. Its yellow casing was once a pig’s intestine dyed with saffron; now it is synthetic. Codified in 1905 by Hermann Koch, it then contained up to 25 per cent pig’s brain (hence its former name of hirnwurst), removed from industrial recipes since the withdrawal of BSE risk materials in 2000.

Grützwurst — Subfamily of German sausages defined by the presence of groats (barley, oats or crumbled bread) mixed with pork meat, blood or offal, then spiced with pepper, allspice and marjoram. Poached without boiling. Present throughout northern and western Germany under regional names: Pinkel in the Oldenburg and Bremen country, Knipp in Lower Saxony, Stippgrütze and Westfälische Rinderwurst in Westphalia, as well as certain Berlin Blutwurst and Leberwurst. A cereal logic shared with the Polish kaszanka (whose name likewise derives from the word for groats) and the Hungarian and Slovak hurka.

Kartoffelwurst — German kochwurst of pre-cooked pork or beef (50 to 70 per cent of the mass), potatoes (30 to 50 per cent), fatback, onions, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stuffed into a wide casing, poached, then sliced and pan-fried. The gelatine from the rind gives it its firmness when cold, which melts away with heat.

Knipp — Grützwurst of Bremen and Lower Saxony made from oat groats, pig’s head, belly, rind and liver, seasoned with salt, pepper and allspice. Sold as a thick stick (stange) or a roll (rolle) 30 cm long, sliced and pan-fried. The historic dish of the peat cutters of north-western Germany. The Lüneburg Heath variant, made with the meat of the Heidschnucke sheep, is called Heidjer Knipp. In the Hanover region, it is known as Calenberger Pfannenschlag.

Knoblauchwurst — Finely minced garlic brühwurst of pork and beef, hot-smoked then poached in water. Stuffed into a 40 mm casing, the fresh garlic, added in notable proportion, gives it its character and its name (knoblauch, garlic). Traditional to Thuringia and to the former city of Breslau, today Wrocław in Poland, where it remains a legacy of the Germanic culture of Silesia.

Kohlwurst — Rohwurst of Schleswig-Holstein and Lower Saxony, also called lungenwurst (lung sausage), made of pork, pig’s lung and fat, seasoned with salt, pepper and marjoram, then heavily smoked. Its name comes from its principal culinary use: simmered in grünkohl (curly kale), it accompanies the pinkel and the kassler (smoked pork loin) in the winter grünkohlessen.

Landjäger — Semi-dried sausage of southern Germany, Switzerland and Austria, of equal parts pork and beef, with red wine and spices, rectangular in section, a shape obtained by pressing between boards before smoking. The name derives from the Alemannic dialect lang tige(n) (long-smoked, long-matured). An analogue of the gendarme presented in the France section.

Mettwurst — Rohwurst of northern Germany made from finely minced raw pork, salted and cold-smoked over beech or oak. Its texture varies with the degree of smoking and maturing: soft and spreadable in the south, firm and sliceable in the north (the spreadable braunschweiger variant, the Holsteiner closer to salami). Eaten raw on rye bread or used in the lentil soups, cabbage stews and mashes of the North. The word mett (finely minced pork in Low German) shares a root with the Danish medister and the Dutch metworst.

Nordhessische ahle wurscht PGI — Dry fermented sausage of northern Hesse, PGI since 2023. The name ahle (‘old’ in Hessian) refers to its long maturing, from four weeks to nine months depending on the calibre. Its particularity: the pork is worked while still warm, within a few hours of slaughter (warmfleischverarbeitung), which dispenses with nitrited salt and starter cultures. On the Slow Food Ark of Taste since 2004; documented in the Hessian archives from 1568.

Pfälzer saumagen — Pig’s stomach stuffed with pork and cubed potatoes, seasoned with onions, marjoram, nutmeg and white pepper, poached at a simmer, then sliced and pan-fried. A speciality of the Palatinate, dated to the eighteenth century and popularised by Helmut Kohl, who made it his official dish of state in the 1980s and 1990s. A technical relative of the haggis and the zampone through the use of a natural container other than the casing. Spread among the Pennsylvania Dutch under the name of stuffed hog maw.

Pinkel — Grützwurst of north-western Germany (Oldenburg, Bremen, Frisia) made from fatback, beef suet, oat or barley groats, onions and spices, poached then cold-smoked. The etymology is Frisian, pink (‘little finger’), an allusion to its small size. The signature ingredient of Grünkohl mit Pinkel, the winter curly-kale stew. The Oldenburger Pinkel or Fleisch-Pinkel variant is distinguished by a higher meat content.

Regensburger — Pork brühwurst smoked over beechwood, short and stocky (about 10 cm long, more than 4 cm in diameter), invented in Regensburg in the second half of the nineteenth century; its manufacture remains confined to the city for the designation Original Regensburger. Served halved lengthways in a small roll called a knackersemmel, with sweet mustard, horseradish and gherkins.

Teewurst — Spreadable rohwurst of pork and fatback, smoked over beechwood, then matured by lactic fermentation, which gives it a fine acidity. Originally from Rügenwalde in Pomerania. The designation Rügenwalder teewurst has been protected since 1927 and is reserved for firms descended from the town’s former makers; other producers are entitled only to the mention teewurst nach Rügenwalder Art.

Thüringer rostbratwurst PGI — Bratwurst of Thuringia, PGI since December 2003 alongside the Thüringer leberwurst and the Thüringer rotwurst. At least 15–20 cm long, a medium-fine forcemeat of defatted pork and pork cheek, possibly extended with veal or beef, flavoured with caraway, marjoram and garlic. Its specification requires at least 51 per cent Thuringian raw materials.

Thüringer rotwurst PGI — Cooked blood sausage of Thuringia, PGI since 2003, nicknamed Königin der blutwürste (‘queen of blood sausages’). Composed of pre-cooked lean pork (at least 35 per cent), derinded cheek, cooked rind, raw liver (about 5 per cent) and blood, seasoned with black pepper, Thuringian marjoram and onions. Stuffed into hog casing or a pig’s bladder. It forms the Thuringian PGI trio with the Thüringer rostbratwurst and the Thüringer leberwurst, protected on the same day.

Weckewerk — Rustic sausage of northern Hesse, also called weckewurst, whose forcemeat of cooked meat and head cheese is extended with stale bread soaked in the broth (hence its name, formed from weck, bread roll in Hessian dialect, and werk, work). Stuffed into hog casing and flavoured with marjoram, it is eaten sliced, cold or pan-fried. In Kassel it is favoured bürgermeisterart, all but scorched in the pan, in homage to the former mayor Philipp Scheidemann.

Ireland

Drisheen — Cork blood pudding of a particular gelatinous, creamy texture, obtained by the addition of a high proportion of milk and by careful sieving of the mixture. Made from blood (beef, sheep, or pork, depending on the recipe; often a mix of beef and sheep today), milk, salt, and breadcrumbs. A pillar of the English Market of Cork, where it has been sold since the early twentieth century, traditionally served with tripe (tripe and drisheen).

Irish Breakfast Sausage — Fresh Irish sausage, typically made mostly from pork and rusk, scented with herbs, a component of the full Irish breakfast alongside black pudding, white pudding, eggs, and bacon. Texture close to that of the British bangers.

Timoleague brown pudding — Blood pudding of West Cork, registered as a PGI in 2000. Fresh pig’s blood in which the oats are soaked the night before making, pork trimmings, onions and spices, stuffed into a natural casing and poached in the form of a ring. The brown colour, lighter than that of a black pudding, gives it its name.

White pudding — Cereal-based white pudding, a component of the full Irish breakfast alongside the black pudding and the Irish breakfast sausage. Pork, oatmeal, suet and onions, stuffed, then poached, sliced and pan-fried for eating. Distinguished from the Scottish mealy pudding, oat-dominant and without pork, and from the Devon hog’s pudding, more heavily spiced.

Italy

Biroldo della Garfagnana — Tuscan head pudding from the Garfagnana and the Middle Serchio Valley (province of Lucca), made exclusively from pig’s heads (cheeks, tongue, heart), excluding the liver and other offal. Addition of blood, scented with wild fennel, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and star anise. Stuffed into the pig’s bladder or stomach (buzzetto), then boiled. Listed in the Slow Food Presidium since 2000, it differs from the biroldo di Lucca and the Tuscan mallegato by the absence of pine nuts and raisins.

Cervellata barese — Fresh sausage from Toritto, in the Alta Murgia National Park (province of Bari), made with 70 per cent beef and 30 per cent pork, scented with fresh basil, garlic, and grated pecorino, worked directly into the forcemeat. Stuffed into a sheep casing and shaped into a spiral about a dozen centimetres in diameter, recalling the whorls of the brain, whence its name (cervello, brain). Grilled. The incorporation of grated cheese into the forcemeat, rare in European charcuterie, recurs in several traditions of southern Italy.

Mazzafegato — Fresh offal sausage of the upper Tiber valley, straddling Umbria, Tuscany, and the Marches, where it goes by different names: mazzafegato in Umbria, sanbudello in Tuscany, salsiccia matta in the Marches. Made of pork trimmings and offal, at least 15 per cent of which is liver, which is its signature and gives it its name (from ammazza fegato, ‘liver-killer’). Seasoned with wild fennel flowers, orange or lemon zest and garlic. Stuffed into a hog casing, then grilled. A sweet version also exists, in Umbria as in the Marches, and is enriched with raisins, pine nuts, orange zest, and sugar.

Mortadella di Prato PGI — Tuscan mortadella of the communes of Prato, Agliana, Quarrata and Montale (province of Pistoia), scented with alkermes, a medieval liqueur coloured with cochineal that gives it its characteristic pink hue. The traditional seasoning contains pepper, garlic, coriander, cinnamon, nutmeg, mace and clove. Stuffed into a natural casing, then cooked slowly (10 to 14 hours). The use of alkermes recalls Prato's textile past, where cochineal was the dyers’ principal colourant. Abandoned after the war, the recipe was taken up by a handful of artisans in the 1990s. Slow Food Presidium (2000), PGI (2016).

Salsiccia al finocchio — Fresh pork sausage with fennel, widespread throughout central and southern Italy, from Tuscany to Sicily. Flavoured with wild fennel seeds (Finocchietto selvatico), stuffed into a hog casing, grilled or pan-fried. It supplied the American sweet Italian sausage (dedicated entry) with its dominant aromatic profile.

Salsiccia di Bra — Fresh Piedmontese sausage stuffed into a sheep casing, with a finely minced forcemeat. Its exclusively bovine production, authorised at Bra by a royal decree of Charles Albert in 1847 to supply the neighbouring Jewish community of Cherasco, made it a rare exception among Italian fresh sausages; the original, entirely bovine recipe was gradually enriched with pork panceta, and the present composition marries 70 to 80 per cent lean beef with 20 to 30 per cent panceta. Recognised PAT, Slow Food Presidium, overseen since 2003 by a Consorzio di Tutela. Eaten mostly raw, as antipasto on bread, but also grilled or worked into a risotto.

Salsiccia di Norcia — Fresh Umbrian sausage of pork shoulder and pancetta, traditionally seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic, without fennel, which sets it apart from the sausages of southern Italy. Emblem of the charcuterie tradition of the norcini, those pork butcher-charcutiers whose name became, throughout Italy, the generic term for the trade. Stuffed into a hog casing, grilled or crumbled into the pasta alla norcina (penne or strangozzi with cream, pecorino and the black truffle of Norcia).

Salsiccia di riso — Peasant Piedmontese sausage of the provinces of Biella and Vercelli, whose historic recipe mixes cooked rice, pork rinds, fatback, pig’s blood, garlic, red wine and spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, clove). Nicknamed salame dei poveri or salame bastardo because the rice, abundant in the neighbouring paddies, helped extend a meat forcemeat that peasant families could not afford in sufficient quantities. Stuffed into a natural casing, lightly smoked over juniper, then poached before being served hot with boiled potatoes.

Sautissa ’d coi — Peasant sausage of Mattie, in the Val di Susa (province of Turin), made of equal parts blanched cabbage leaves (central rib removed), pork fat, and lean pork, sometimes spiced with cinnamon and clove. Stuffed into a hog casing, boiled and served with potatoes. Produced in autumn and winter, it keeps for about a fortnight.

Netherlands

Bakleverworst — Dutch liver sausage made with pork liver, pig’s head, and lardons, bound with a substantial amount of buckwheat flour that gives it its characteristic firmness and makes it sliceable. Stuffed into a beef or hog casing, then poached. Sliced thick and fried before eating. A peasant speciality of autumn and winter, inherited from domestic slaughters. The most emblematic variant, the Twentsche bakleverworst, is listed in the Ark van de Smaak of Slow Food Nederland.

Braadworst — Fresh Dutch frying sausage, typically made from pork, stuffed into a natural casing. The word designates a category rather than a codified recipe: an elongated, coiled form for the braadworst, short and cut into lengths for the saucijs. The seasoning (pepper, nutmeg, mace, sometimes coriander or clove) remains at the charcutier’s discretion. Pan-fried in butter, served with potatoes or in a broodje braadworst (sandwich) with softened onions.

Leverworst — Cooked liver sausage, to be served in slices on bread, of which the Netherlands distinguishes two codified regional variants: the Groninger leverworst, of coarse structure, about 46 per cent pork liver and dominated by clove; the Haagse leverworst, of very fine paste, machine-sliceable, punctuated with fat dice, with less liver. Both are stuffed into a natural beef casing and poached, in contrast to the bakleverworst, which is eaten pan-fried.

United Kingdom

Cambridge sausage — Fresh English pork sausage, scented with sage, cayenne, mace and nutmeg, traditionally bound with cooked rice, a rare particularity in British charcuterie. A documented recipe appears in Warne’s Model Cookery and Housekeeping Book of 1869. Widely distributed in the early twentieth century under the Palethorpe brand, which sold them as Royal Cambridge sausages made in Shropshire.

Epping sausage — Fresh sausage of the town of Epping (Essex), of pork, beef suet and sage, to which are traditionally added marjoram, thyme, mace and lemon zest. Initially skinless, hand-shaped, and floured before frying, it is now also found stuffed into a natural casing, the chief witness to this Essex tradition.

Hog’s pudding — Cereal-based white sausage of Devon and Cornwall, of pork, suet, bread and oatmeal or pearl barley, scented with black pepper, cumin, basil and garlic. Poached, then sliced and pan-fried at breakfast. A local variant of the British and Irish white-pudding family, from which it differs by a frankly spiced profile that brings it close to the haggis.

Manchester sausage — Fresh English pork sausage scented with nutmeg, mace, ginger, sage, white pepper and clove. Its first mention appears in an eighteenth-century recipe book, its spiced profile reflecting the influence of colonial spices that arrived in England during the Elizabethan era.

Newmarket sausage PGI — Fresh Suffolk sausage of coarsely minced pork (minimum 70 per cent meat), breadcrumb or rusk, scented with black and white pepper, nutmeg, thyme and parsley. Its reputation is bound to the racing tradition of Newmarket, where the racing stables raised pigs fed on the ‘leftovers’ of the stables. Since 1952, a box of Newmarket sausages from the butcher Powters has been among the prizes awarded to the winner of the Town Plate, a race created by Charles II in 1665. PGI was registered in 2012, restricted to producers established in a precisely delimited zone around Newmarket.

Oxford sausage — Fresh English sausage associated with the city of Oxford, made of equal parts pork, veal and beef suet, scented with lemon zest, sage, thyme, savoury, marjoram and nutmeg. Traditionally hand-shaped and floured before frying, skinless, it is today also found in a cased version. Its contemporary spread remains limited, despite its entry into the repertoire of classic English sausages.

Polony — British cooked sausage of fine, emulsified forcemeat, stuffed into a casing coloured red or orange, smoked then poached. The English and Irish versions marry pork and beef; the Scottish version, particularly widespread in Dundee and the north-east, is of pork alone, sliced and pan-fried at breakfast. The name, attested since the seventeenth century, is an English deformation of Bologna: the polony shares this filiation with the American Bologna, both distant descendants of the Italian mortadella.

Saveloy — English cooked sausage made from finely minced, heavily spiced meat, with a bright red colour obtained from a food colourant. Sold ready to use, it is reheated, boiled and served in fish-and-chip shops, sometimes coated in batter then fried. Its name is an anglicisation of cervelas, itself from the Italian cervellata, from the Latin cerebellum; the earliest attestation in English appears in Hannah Glasse’s Art of Cookery, in 1784. Recurrent in Victorian literature (Dickens mentions it in Oliver Twist and Pickwick Papers), it accompanies British expansion and settles in New Zealand, where it serves as the base of the local hot dog (a battered saveloy on a stick, fried, dipped in ketchup), and in Australia, where the fish-and-chip shop’s battered sav offers it simply battered and fried, without a stick.

Yorkshire Pork sausage — Fresh English pork sausage stuffed into a casing, scented with dominant notes of pepper, mace, nutmeg, ground coriander, and parsley. Its official recipe was established in August 2010 following a popular competition organised by the Ilkley butcher David Lishman, with more than 3,000 voters. Commonly served at breakfast, it also appears in toad in the hole (sausages baked in a thick pancake batter — Yorkshire pudding).

Switzerland

The Swiss PGI and PDO protections listed below are registered in the Swiss federal register maintained by the Federal Office for Agriculture (FOAG). They are distinct from the European PGIs and PDOs but rest on equivalent principles.

Appenzeller siedwurst PGI — Boiling sausage of Appenzell and St Gallen, of a fine forcemeat of beef, pork and fatback, scented with caraway, garlic and pepper, stuffed into a beef, hog or collagen casing. Arising from the nineteenth-century German-Swiss charcuterie, it presupposes two technical innovations: the meat mincer and the fine-flesh cutter (wurstblitz). Swiss PGI was registered in 2018.

Berner zungenwurst PGI — Smoked scalded sausage of the canton of Bern, of pork, beef, fatback and rind, scented with pepper, nutmeg, mace, cardamom and garlic. Its name means ‘tongue sausage’, but it has contained none since the nineteenth century; the Bern cookbook of 1835 still mentions the original ingredient. A component of the Berner Platte, the Bernese dish of smoked meats on sauerkraut. Swiss PGI was registered in 2019.

Boutefas PDO — Large raw sausage from the cantons of Vaud and Fribourg, made from pork, stuffed into the pig’s caecum, whose characteristic bulges give it its irregular form. Its size (from 600 g to 3 kg) and this container distinguish it from the saucisson vaudois PGI, which belongs to the same technical family as the Romand sausages with interrupted maturation. Poaching of one to two hours before eating. First attestation of the term in 1634 in the Fribourg archives. PDO was registered in 2021.

Glarner Kalberwurst PGI — Scalded sausage of veal and pork of the canton of Glarus, whose signature is the addition of white bread (4 to 8 per cent) and the pronounced note of nutmeg. Attested from 1846, its bread content provoked a long federal quarrel, Swiss food law prohibiting non-meat ingredients in sausages until 1992. Traditionally served on the first Sunday of May, at the Landsgemeinde of Glarus. Swiss PGI was registered in 2011.

Longeole PGI — Geneva poaching sausage, made of equal parts lean pork, jowl fat and raw rind, scented with whole fennel seeds and white pepper. The origin is attributed to the abbey of Pommier in Haute-Savoie, whose monk, Father Longeot, is said to have invented the recipe. The Geneva product specification requires whole fennel, while the variants of north-eastern Haute-Savoie keep the use of caraway. PGI was registered in 2009.

Saucisse aux choux vaudoise PGI — Vaud sausage that combines blanched cabbage with pork meat, fatback, and cooked rinds, stuffed into a beef casing bent into a loop, cold-smoked, then poached. Inseparable from the papet vaudois, the leek-and-potato stew that is the codified accompaniment. It shares with the Piedmontese sautissa ’d coi, listed in the Italian register of traditional agri-food products (PAT), the particularity of incorporating the cabbage directly into the forcemeat, as a structuring ingredient. Swiss PGI was registered in 2004.

Saucisse d’Ajoie PGI — Raw smoked sausage from the district of Porrentruy (canton of the Swiss Jura), made from lean and fatty pork, stuffed into a hog casing and cold-smoked over softwood. Whole cumin and garlic, obligatory according to the product specification — cumin, in French-speaking Switzerland as in Alsace, commonly designating caraway (Carum carvi) — give it its aromatic typicity. To be cooked in barely simmering water before eating. PGI was registered in 2002. Centrepiece of the traditional St Martin’s meal, around 11 November.

Saucisson neuchâtelois PGI — Raw pork sausage (two-thirds lean, one-third fat), stuffed into a beef casing and cold-smoked over softwood, to be poached before eating. The beef casing sets it apart from its Romand cousins with interrupted maturation, the saucisson vaudois and the boutefas, which are stuffed into hog casing. The saucisse neuchâteloise PGI, which shares the same product specification, differs only in having a curved casing of smaller calibre. Traditionally cooked at the torrée, under the embers of a wood fire in the Neuchâtel Mountains. PGI was registered in 2003.

Saucisson vaudois PGI — Raw smoked sausage of the canton of Vaud, made exclusively from pork, with at least 60 per cent lean meat. Stuffed into a natural hog casing, cold-smoked. Salt and pepper form the basic seasoning; garlic, coriander, nutmeg, mace, clove, anise and a touch of white wine or lees are also permitted by the product specification. To be poached in barely simmering water before eating. A dried variant, having lost at least 25 per cent of its weight, is eaten raw under the name saucisson vaudois sec PGI. Swiss PGI was registered in 2004.

St. Galler bratwurst PGI — Roasting sausage of the cantons of St Gallen, Appenzell and Thurgau, of veal and pork with added fresh milk, which gives it its characteristic white colour. First mention in 1438 in the statutes of the St Gallen butchers’ guild, which already set its ingredients. Salt, white pepper and mace are obligatory; other spices (cardamom, coriander, nutmeg, ginger) are admitted. A variant created in 1943 for the OLMA autumn fair, the OLMA-bratwurst, is distinguished by its larger format (160 g against 110–130 g). By St Gallen tradition, it is eaten without mustard. PGI was registered in 2008.

Scotland (United Kingdom)

Stornoway Black Pudding PGI — Scottish black pudding from the town and parish of Stornoway, on the Isle of Lewis (Outer Hebrides), made with blood (sheep, beef, or pork, according to the producers), oats, beef suet, and onions. European PGI registered in 2013, setting it apart from other British puddings.

Spain

Botillo del Bierzo PGI — Cooking charcuterie from the comarca of El Bierzo and the Laciana valley (province of León), made from whole pieces of pork (mainly ribs and tail), seasoned with paprika, garlic, and salt. Stuffed into the pig’s caecum, smoked over oak or holm-oak, semi-matured. Served in a winter stew with cabbage, potatoes and chorizo. PGI was registered in 2001. Its Portuguese equivalent of common origin is the Butelo de Vinhais PGI.

Butifarra blanca — Catalan cooked sausage made from fine pork, characteristic white in colour. Its aromatic sobriety — essentially salt and black pepper — sets it apart from its cousin, the butifarra negra, which inherits the medieval spices (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg); without blood, without pimentón, without bread or rice, it is recognisable by its fine, pale paste, stuffed then poached. Sold ready to eat, it is served in cold slices or pan-fried and enters the escudella i carn d’olla, the great Catalan stew, alongside its negra cousin.

Butifarra dulce — Singular embutido of the comarcas of Girona (Empordà, Gironès, Pla de l’Estany, Selva, Garrotxa), joining lean pork, sugar — in a proportion close to half the weight of the meat — lemon zest and salt. The sugar dehydrates the meat during a rest of one to two weeks, giving the product its dark garnet colour. Sold as tendra (pan-fried with apple and caramel as a dessert) or seca (dry like a fuet). Llorenç Torrado (journalist, gastronomic critic) saw in it a living fossil of medieval Catalan cooking. ‘Productes de l’Empordà’ guarantee mark since 2003.

Chosco de Tineo PGI — Embutido of western Asturias, of loin-head meat (60 to 80 per cent) and pig’s tongue (15 to 30 per cent) macerated in salt, paprika and garlic, stuffed by hand into the pig’s caecum, whence its irregular rounded form, then smoked over oak, chestnut or beech wood for at least seven days. Sold raw-matured or escaldado (poached after smoking), it is served in slices or worked into the fabada (a stew of white beans and charcuterie) and the Asturian soups. PGI was registered in 2011.

Farinato — Charcuterie of Salamanca, of Iberian pork fat, breadcrumb, flour, onion, paprika, garlic, anise and brandy, cereal-dominant rather than meat-based. The mixture is pre-cooked over gentle heat before being stuffed into a beef casing and knotted at both ends, which gives it its characteristic horseshoe form. Native to Ciudad Rodrigo, whose people are nicknamed ‘farinatos’, it has held a regional guarantee mark since 2007. Sliced and pan-fried with fried eggs. Distant relative of the neighbouring Portuguese farinheira.

Morcilla asturiana — Blood sausage of Asturias, made with pig’s blood, onions, fatback, and paprika, without rice, unlike the morcilla de Burgos, which is scalded, then smoked over oak for several weeks, giving it its very dark colour and firm texture. Documented in nineteenth-century Asturian cooking, it constitutes, along with chorizo and fatback, one of the three elements of the compango (a charcuterie assortment) that flavours the fabada asturiana (a stew of white beans and meat). The fresh variant, sometimes made with beef blood, is called moscancia.

Sobrasada d’Ibiza — an Ibizan variant of the Majorcan sobrassada, treated in a main entry, with a higher lean proportion and a coarser mince, which give it a firmer, less unctuous texture. Spread on bread or worked into island stews such as the sofrit pagès. A local guarantee mark, Sobrassada d’Eivissa, issued by the Consell Insular, distinguishes artisanal products made from pigs raised on the island.

Portugal

Butelo de Vinhais — Cooking charcuterie of Trás-os-Montes, made from the meat, fat, bone, and cartilage of the ribs and spine of bísaro pork, seasoned with salt, garlic, paprika, bay, and wine. Stuffed into a large casing, stomach (bucho) or bladder, then smoked over a gentle oak or chestnut fire for at least fifteen days. Served poached with casulas (dried bean pods) and potatoes, traditionally at Carnival. The name derives from the vulgar Latin bottellus (intestine) and designates the Portuguese equivalent of the Castilian-Leonese Botillo del Bierzo. PGI was registered in 2008.

Cacholeira branca de Portalegre — Offal charcuterie of the Alto Alentejo, made from liver, spleen, heart, and pancreas of alentejana-breed pork, to which a little blood is added only to tint the paste a brown-grey colour, seasoned with salt and sometimes garlic and cumin. Stuffed into a natural casing, it is poached in barely simmering water for about an hour. Its name derives from cachola, a word designating pig’s liver, the binding ingredient that here takes the place of the dominant blood of the morcelas. Documented in the memórias paroquiais of 1750, folded into the cozido alentejano. PGI was registered in 1997.

Chouriça doce de Vinhais — Original smoked sausage of Trás-os-Montes mixing bísaro pork meat, regional bread, Trás-os-Montes DOP olive oil, pig’s blood, honey and walnuts or almonds. The bread is softened in the cooking broth of the meats, mixed with the other ingredients, stuffed into a fine hog or beef casing, then smoked over oak or chestnut and matured for more than fifteen days. Poached for eating, it is often served as a dessert with a little honey and dried fruit. It belongs to the rare family of European sweet charcuteries, alongside the Neapolitan sanguinaccio dolce and the Catalan butifarra dulce. PGI was registered in 2008.

Chouriço de abóbora de Barroso-Montalegre — Smoked sausage from Barroso (district of Vila Real), made with bísaro pork meat and fat mixed with the flesh of the local porqueira squash, previously drained for two days, seasoned with salt, garlic, wine, and paprika. Smoked over oak for ten to fifteen days, it takes on a characteristic orange hue; the squash, an unusual ingredient in European charcuterie, brings sweetness and moisture to the mixture. Prepared at the winter matança that gives rhythm to rural life in the Barroso, it accompanies the soups and bean stews. PGI was registered in 2007.

Chouriço de sangue — Portuguese blood sausage, distinct from the morcela in that it follows the logic of the meat chouriço (meat, fat, garlic, red wine or vinegar), to which pig’s blood is added, without bread. A smoked variant in Trás-os-Montes, a scalded, paler variant. A recurring ingredient in cozido à portuguesa.

Morcela de arroz — Portuguese blood sausage made with pig’s blood, fatty meats, rice, onion, cumin, clove, and parsley, stuffed into a natural casing and poached for a long time. Its appearance in the nineteenth century in the Lis valley, where the cultivation of carolino rice combined with the annual tradition of the matanças (slaughter), makes the rice its distinctive signature among the Iberian blood sausages, in contrast with the Castilian morcilla de Burgos, which shares this ingredient. Particularly bound to Leiria (Alta Estremadura), where it is promoted by a dedicated Confraria and by the Associação de Produtores de Morcela de Arroz de Leiria (APMALEI) since 2010. Grilled or pan-fried as a dish, served in slices as an aperitif, or used as an ingredient in cozido à portuguesa.

Morcela de Assar de Portalegre — Smoked blood sausage of the Alto Alentejo, made with alentejano pork fat (head, neck, belly, fatback) and blood, seasoned with salt, crushed dried garlic, cumin, paprika, and sometimes regional wine. Without bread or rice, it differs from Leiria's morcela de arroz. Marinated for 12 to 24 hours, stuffed into a hog casing, and smoked over a slow oak fire for about 10 days, it takes on its characteristic horseshoe form. Its name, de assar (‘for roasting’), differentiates it from the neighbouring morcela de cozer de Portalegre PGI, meant for poaching. Documented from 1750, it enters the cozido à portuguesa. PGI was registered in 1997.

Sangueira de Barroso-Montalegre — Smoked blood sausage of Barroso, made from meat, fat, and blood of bísaro pork, with added wheat bread, seasoned with salt, garlic, wine, paprika, parsley, onion, and Trás-os-Montes olive oil. The fresh blood is diluted in salted water to prevent coagulation; the fatty meat is set to marinate for up to three days, then the whole is stuffed into a fine hog casing and gently smoked over oak for three to four days. Its singularity among the Iberian blood sausages lies in the proportion of meat, the freshness of the onion and parsley, and the bread that replaces the southern rice. PGI was registered in 2007.

Denmark

Røde pølser — Fine pork sausage smoked over beech then poached, its skin tinted a bright red with carmine (E120), served since the 1930s at the street kiosks (pølsevogne) of Copenhagen, as a hot dog garnished with remoulade, mustard, ketchup, raw onions, fried onions and gherkins. The colouring, initially used to sell off the previous day’s sausages, became the visual signature of the product.

Norway

Kjøttpølse — Norwegian emulsified sausage of pork, sometimes mixed with beef, thicker and shorter than the grillpølse, from which it differs in its destination: no longer the street snack but the family dinner. Served on the plate with potatoes and vegetables, with mustard. Also called middagspølse (‘dinner sausage’).

Medisterpølse norvégienne — Norwegian variant of the Danish medisterpølse, treated in a main entry, often associated with Christmas meals (julebord) where it accompanies the ribbe (roast pork belly). Norwegian recipes tend to feature a slightly more pronounced aromatic profile, with ginger frequently appearing alongside nutmeg and pepper, but the boundaries between Danish and Norwegian versions remain fluid.

Wienerpølse — Fine sausage, emulsified forcemeat mainly from pork, curved, poached and served in a lompe (potato flatbread) or in a bun with ketchup, mustard and fried onions. Milder and finer than the grillpølse, also present in Denmark.

Finland

Grillimakkara — Finnish industrial pork sausage, sometimes mixed with beef, whose consumption, when grilled over a campfire or in the fireplace, is a cultural institution, particularly associated with Midsummer (Juhannus), the sauna, and the mökki (summer cottage). Traditionally accompanied by the Finnish mustard sinappi, mild and sharp.

Perunamakkara — Finnish peasant sausage of the Häme region where the potato replaces the barley groats of the neighbouring ryynimakkara. Contemporary composition: pork, sometimes beef, potatoes, onion, milk and spices. Cooked in the making, then pan-fried or grilled before serving. Traditionally present on the Finnish Christmas table.

Rusinamakkara — Liver sausage of Turku, the counterpart of the mustamakkara of Tampere, from which it differs by the absence of blood: it combines pork, beef liver, and barley groats with raisins and syrup that give it its sweetness, lifted with allspice and white pepper. Stuffed into a casing, served hot and pan-fried in butter with lingonberry jam. A Christmas dish attested in the nineteenth century, when raisins reached Finland through the port of Turku.

Ryynimakkara — Finnish peasant sausage in which the barley groats make up about a fifth of the weight. Its traditional composition contained no meat; the contemporary versions add pork, sometimes lamb, tongue or heart. Close family of the perunamakkara (with potato) and the mustamakkara of Tampere, treated in a main entry. By its technique of groats in the casing, it joins at a distance the British black pudding and the Scottish haggis.

Iceland

Bjúgu — Icelandic sausage of lamb (traditionally also of horse meat), cooked and smoked, with added potato starch, water and spices. Boiled before eating, it is served with a béchamel sauce (uppstúf), boiled potatoes and peas — an accompaniment it shares with the hangikjöt (Icelandic smoked lamb).

Pylsa / Pylsur — Icelandic hot dog of lamb, beef and pork, poached, served in a bun with raw and fried onions, mild mustard (pylsusinnep), remoulade and ketchup. Introduced in the early twentieth century under Danish influence. Its lamb-dominant composition reflects the adaptation to an agricultural economy where pork was little widespread.

Lithuania

Skilandis — Lithuanian sausage, also called kindziukas, of coarsely minced pork (sometimes mixed with beef), seasoned with garlic, stuffed into a pig’s bladder or a beef caecum, cold-smoked over deciduous wood, then long-dried. Characteristic pear shape. Eaten in thin slices with black bread or boiled. The name Lietuviškas skilandis has been registered as a TSG since 2016, with the name Skilandis protected as early as 2010.

Poland

Biała kiełbasa — Fresh Polish sausage of pork, sometimes with added beef or veal, stuffed into a natural hog casing, flavoured with garlic and marjoram. Unsmoked, whence the pale colour that gives it its name. Poached, it is served with horseradish, mustard, or ćwikła (horseradish-beetroot) at the Easter breakfast after the blessing of the basket (święconka), and is part of the composition of żurek and biały barszcz (Easter soups). The version codified by PGI of Wielkopolska is treated above.

Biała kiełbasa parzona wielkopolska PGI — Fresh Polish sausage from the Wielkopolska voivodeship (Greater Poland) and a few neighbouring regions, made from pork, poached, flavoured with garlic, pepper, and marjoram. Inseparable from the Easter table, notably in the żurek (a sour soup) and the biały barszcz (Easter soup). European PGI registered in 2017.

Kabanosy — Fine Polish pork sausage, long and folded in two, smoked and dried, flavoured with pepper, nutmeg and caraway, traditionally accompanied by vodka. The name derives from kaban (in the diminutive kabanek), a young pig fattened on potatoes in eastern Poland in the nineteenth century, whose flesh originally supplied the raw material. European TSG was registered in 2011, following a dispute that pitted Poland against several of its neighbours over the name's paternity.

Kiszka ziemniaczana — Sausage of raw grated potatoes, smoked fatback, onion and marjoram, stuffed, then baked in a spiral. A speciality of Podlasie bordering Belarus, kin to the German Kartoffelwurst, but without prior cooking of the potatoes.

Czech Republic and Slovakia

Jitrnice — Czech sausage of pork liver and offal, bound with barley groats and scented with marjoram and garlic, prepared at the slaughter festivals (zabijačka). Poached, it is eaten hot. Widespread throughout Bohemia and Moravia, where it appears among the first preparations of the freshly slaughtered pig.

Klobása moravská — Moravian sausage of coarsely minced pork, sometimes with added beef, seasoned with garlic, paprika, pepper and caraway, stuffed into a natural casing and smoked over wood. A cooking product, codified by the Czech corporate standards (cechovní normy), it is served hot and remains associated with the slaughter festivals and the domestic smokehouses of Moravia. The caraway stands out in its profile against that of the Bohemian sausages.

Ukraine

Krovianka — Ukrainian blood sausage of pig’s blood, buckwheat groats, fatback and onion, lifted with garlic, salt and pepper, stuffed into a hog casing, then boiled or baked. Buckwheat, the dominant grain, makes it a Ukrainian signature within the family of Slavic blood sausages, to which the Polish kaszanka also belongs. Prepared at the time of the pig’s slaughter, it reappears on the Christmas and Easter tables.

Hungary

Debreceni kolbász — Hungarian cooking sausage, sold in pairs (páros), of beef and pork, with added fatback and seasoned with paprika, briefly smoked. Unlike the dry sausages of Békés county (csabai, gyulai), it is eaten grilled or poached, as a street snack with bread and mustard. Its traditional all-beef version recalls its anchoring in the kosher clientele of Debrecen. Declared a hungarikum in 2015.

Lecsókolbász — Hungarian sausage of pork, sometimes with added beef, smoked and stuffed into a fine casing, conceived for the lecsó, the national stew of peppers, tomatoes and onions. Its deliberately moderate seasoning and its generous fat set it apart from the heavily paprika’d sausages such as the debreceni: it melts into the dish and binds it without masking the vegetables. Cut into rounds, it simmers there until it releases its scented fat.

Virsli — Hungarian form of the Viennese sausage (bécsi virsli), a fine emulsion of beef and pork stuffed into a sheep casing and lightly smoked, developed in Vienna by Johann Georg Lahner in 1805. Technically close to the Frankfurter würstchen and the saucisse de Strasbourg, it differs from them chiefly by its Hungarian anchoring: a ritual dish of New Year’s Eve, the base of the Magyar hot dog that appeared in the 1980s, and an ingredient of the lecsó (vegetable stew) as well as the rántotta (scrambled eggs).

Russia

Kolbasa po-domashnemu — Russian ‘home sausage’, a domestic category more than a fixed recipe: coarsely cut pork, fatback, garlic and pepper, stuffed into a hog casing, then poached and pan-fried or roasted. Without codified composition, it is handed down in families in countless variants and embodies the peasant side of Russian charcuterie, in contrast with the industrial doktorskaya born of the Soviet mould.

Krovianaya kolbasa — Russian blood sausage made from pig’s blood (sometimes beef), buckwheat groats, fatback, and onion, seasoned with garlic and spices, stuffed into a casing, then boiled. The buckwheat, an emblematic grain of Russian cooking, is its characteristic charge. Attested in the nineteenth-century cookbooks, including that of Elena Molokhovets, it appears among the dishes served at Christmas.

Romania

Caltaboș — Romanian offal sausage dominated by liver, to which, according to the region, spleen, heart, lungs, or kidneys are added, bound with rice and fried onion, lifted with garlic, thyme, allspice, and pepper. The offal is boiled before being chopped and stuffed into a hog casing or pig’s stomach; then the whole is poached, which sets it apart from the grilled cârnați. Prepared for the Ignat, the slaughter of 20 December, it is served hot or cold in slices, with bread, raw onion or gherkins. Depending on the region, it goes by the names chișcă (Moldavia), cartaboș, or călbaj.

Cârnat oltenesc — Oltenian variant of the Romanian cârnați, proper to the south-west of the country, distinguished by a particularly high quantity of garlic and a marked presence of hot chilli (ardei iute). Coarsely minced pork, sometimes stuffed into a sheep casing and slowly smoked over hardwood. Grilled or pan-fried, it accompanies the mămăligă (maize polenta) at village festivals.

Sângerete — Romanian blood sausage of pig’s blood, fatty meat, fatback and rind, bound with fried onion and lifted with thyme, allspice and pepper; rice appears only in certain versions. The offal and the rind are boiled before being chopped, mixed with the blood, stuffed into a hog casing and poached, sometimes followed by a light preserving smoke. Particularly in Transylvania, where it is called vereș, it is prepared at Ignat, the slaughter on 20 December, and served in slices with mustard, horseradish, or gherkins.

Tobă — Romanian head cheese: head meat, tongue, ears, rind and cartilage of pork, cooked then bound by its own gelatine, lifted with garlic and pepper, stuffed into the pig’s stomach, poached and pressed under weight before being sliced cold. In Transylvania and the Banat, paprika gives it colour and aroma. Prepared at the Ignat, the slaughter of 20 December, it is present on the Christmas and New Year tables, alongside the cârnați, the caltaboș and the sângerete.

Cyprus

Loukanika Kypriaka — Cypriot sausage of coarsely minced pork, macerated six to eight days in the local dry red wine and coriander — the wine-coriander alliance that marks all the charcuterie of the island, from the lountza to the afelia. Stuffed, sun-dried, then smoked for several days, it keeps and is eaten as mezé, grilled or simmered with pulses. The terroirs of Pitsilia (Agros) and Paphos (paphitiko loukaniko) are the most renowned. The coriander and sun-drying set it apart from the Greek loukaniko, which is marked by citrus.

Iran

Kalbas — Iranian mortadella, a sliceable cooked charcuterie eaten cold. The name is a direct borrowing from the Russian колбаса (kolbasa), which entered Persian at the start of the twentieth century with European industrial charcuterie techniques, via northern provinces in contact with the Russian Empire. Made of beef or poultry, sometimes garnished with pistachios, it differs from the sosis (French saucisse), a small cocktail-type sausage. The sandevich-e kalbas (kalbas: Persian gherkins, tomato, and mayonnaise in a baguette) is a fixture of Iranian urban catering.

Ethiopia

Wakalim — Fermented, dried beef sausage of Harar, in eastern Ethiopia, stuffed into a beef small intestine and seasoned with cardamom, clove, cinnamon, cumin and chilli. Dried over the hearth then smoked, it keeps for several months and is eaten raw, grilled or briefly poached. Reserved for the great occasions such as weddings, Ramadan or the feast of Arafa, it also served as a provision for the pilgrims travelling to Mecca.

Argentina

Longaniza argentina — Long pork sausage, cooked and dried, whose characteristic aroma comes from the anise seeds worked into the forcemeat. Slightly sweet flavour, eaten in thin slices as an aperitif, sometimes cooked.

Morcilla dulce — Argentine blood sausage called vasca (Basque), incorporating walnuts, raisins and sometimes pine nuts. An inheritance of the Basque communities of Argentina, an unusual sweet variant in the Hispanic world.

Salchicha parrillera — Argentine fine, long sausage, coiled into a spiral for grilling, similar in composition to chorizo criollo but distinct in form and fineness. A usual component of the asado.

Bolivia

Chorizo chuquisaqueño — Fresh Bolivian sausage from Sucre (department of Chuquisaca), made with pork, cloves, cinnamon, orange peel, and mint (hierbabuena), lifted with ground red chilli (ají colorado). A singular spiced-sweet profile, inherited from German charcuterie techniques. Served in a round sandwich with salad and llajua (the Bolivian hot tomato-and-chilli sauce present on every table).

Morcilla boliviana — Bolivian blood sausage of pig’s blood, rice and mint, scented with cinnamon and clove. A Spanish colonial inheritance adapted to the high plateaux.

Brazil

Linguiça Blumenau PGI — Smoked sausage of Santa Catarina created by the German immigrants of the Pomerode-Blumenau region at the end of the nineteenth century, from pork shoulder and ham, garlic, white pepper and salt. Artisanal smoking over charcoal and sawdust for at least two days.

Linguiça Toscana — Fresh Brazilian pork sausage with garlic and fennel, introduced by Tuscan immigrants to São Paulo in the nineteenth century. Grilled at the churrasco, distinct from the calabresa by the absence of smoking and by the use of fennel.

Paio brasileño — Brazilian adaptation of the Portuguese paio treated in a main entry, pork and garlic less spiced than the Iberian original, an emblematic ingredient of the feijoada à brasileira (a bean-and-meat stew).

Canada

Kovbasa ukraino-canadienne — Adaptation by the Ukrainian diaspora of the Canadian Prairies (Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba) of the Ukrainian kovbasa treated in a main entry, smoked over maple or apple. Ubiquitous at farmers’ markets and community fairs since the waves of Ukrainian migration in the late nineteenth century.

Mennonite sausage — Sausage of the Mennonite communities of Waterloo (Ontario) and Manitoba, traditionally reduced to five ingredients: pork, salt, pepper, curing and natural smoking. Each extended family has its own variant. The St Jacobs farmers’ market, in Ontario, is its emblematic place. The Manitoba version is a little drier than the Ontario one.

Saucisse à l’érable — Fresh Quebec sausage scented with pure maple syrup and thyme, an artisanal speciality of the sugar shacks in spring.

Saucisse du boucher québécois — Fresh sausage of coarsely minced pork with garlic and celery salt, sold in the neighbourhood butchers of Quebec. Base of the pâté chinois (a three-layer gratin of meat, potatoes and maize), the ragoût de pattes (braised pig’s feet and hocks) and the tourtière du Lac-Saint-Jean (a meat pie).

Caribbean

Black pudding trinidadien — Caribbean adaptation of the British black pudding, treated in a main entry: pig’s blood, rice and piment congo (the local habanero), cooked then served hot in a banana leaf in the markets of Port of Spain.

Morcilla puertorriqueña — Puerto Rican blood sausage made with pig’s blood, raw rice, and achiote (annatto, which gives it its orange colour), scented with fresh coriander and garlic. Blood counterpart of the longaniza puertorriqueña, generally prepared at slaughter time.

Pudding & Souse (Barbados) — Barbadian national Saturday-morning dish: pork black pudding with thyme and local chilli, with souse (pickled pig’s head with lemon).

Sausage jamaïcain — Jamaican sausage of pork, beef or chicken, seasoned with pimento, thyme, garlic and scotch bonnet chilli. Used in the cook-up sausage, a popular Sunday dish, distinct from jerk, which is a method of marinating and cooking and its product, not a sausage.

Chile

Longaniza de Chillán — Emblematic variant of the longaniza chilena treated in a main entry, produced at Chillán (Ñuble region) and regarded as the national reference. The town made it a local symbol: the football team Ñublense is nicknamed there ‘La longaniza mecánica’.

Colombia

Chorizo del Tolima — Fresh sausage of the department of Tolima, spicier and fattier than the coastal butifarra, a key ingredient of the lechona tolimense (festive stuffed pig).

Morcilla colombiana — Colombian blood sausage made with pig’s blood, rice, and onions, flavoured with cumin and hierbabuena (a perennial aromatic herb of the mint family). Served in the fritangas (fried assortments) of the markets and popular festivals.

Cuba

Chorizo cubano — Fresh Cuban sausage of pork, garlic, cumin and dry wine, of direct Spanish influence. Grilled then folded into the sandwich cubano with ham, Swiss cheese and gherkins.

Morcilla cubana — Cuban blood sausage made with pig’s blood, rice, and Caribbean spices. An inheritance of the Spanish peasant traditions of the Canaries and Andalusia, prepared at the rural family slaughters.

Ecuador

Morcilla ecuatoriana — Blood sausage of the Ecuadorian Sierra of pig’s blood, rice and hierbabuena (a perennial aromatic herb of the mint family). A speciality of the Sunday markets of Riobamba and Ambato.

United States

Biroldo (San Francisco) — Blood pudding of Tuscan inspiration produced by the Italian-American community of San Francisco, of pig’s blood, sweet spices and pine nuts. A speciality of the North Beach district.

Boudin rouge cajun (Louisiana) — Blood variant of the Cajun boudin, made with pig’s blood, rice, and Cajun spices (cayenne, black pepper, garlic). Rarer than the white version, it is produced artisanally and is kept alive by a few family butchers.

Bratwurst de Sheboygan (Wisconsin) — German-American adaptation of the bratwurst treated in a main entry, milder and slightly sweet, poached in beer before grilling. Sheboygan proclaims itself the World Capital of the brat, which it places at the heart of its tailgate parties.

Chaurice (Louisiana) — Fresh Creole-Cajun pork sausage, seasoned with cayenne, one of the spiciest in Creole cooking. Its name is a Frenchification of the Spanish chorizo, from which it derives: introduced during the Spanish colonial period, it transformed on contact with the local Creole ingredients and tastes.

Chorizo de Santa Fe (New Mexico) — Hispano-Amerindian chorizo of New Mexico incorporating the local Hatch chillies, distinct from the standard Mexican chorizo by the influence of New Mexican cooking.

Czech sausage du Texas — Sausage of the Czech diaspora of central Texas (Fredericksburg, West, Shiner), of pork seasoned with caraway and marjoram, grilled at the kolache festivals (which honour the Czech heritage) and the community festivals of the towns founded in the nineteenth century.

Hot link (Texas–Deep South) — an African-American sausage emblematic of the pit BBQ of East Texas and the Deep South, made with beef (or a beef-pork mix) and heavily spiced with paprika and garlic. Pittsburg (Texas) proclaims itself the capital. In local slang they are nicknamed ‘hot guts’. An origin bound to the recovery of meat scraps in the urban butchers.

Kielbasa américaine (Chicago, Detroit) — Adaptation by the Polish-American diaspora of the Polish kiełbasa, treated in the main entry; smokier and more garlicky than the original, ubiquitous in the supermarkets of the Midwest and the street stalls of large cities with a strong Polish-origin population.

Knockwurst américaine — a German-American version of the knackwurst, thicker and more garlicky, found in the artisanal butchers of the Midwest, an inheritance of the nineteenth-century German diaspora.

Liver pudding (Carolina) — African-American preparation of pig’s liver, cornmeal and spices, stuffed into a large casing, then cooked. A speciality of North and South Carolina, sliced cold or fried hot.

Longaniza puertorriqueña — Longaniza with achiote, oregano and garlic, produced in links in the Puerto Rican communities of New York, Chicago and Philadelphia. An Iberian-Caribbean inheritance transplanted in the diaspora, distinct from the generic longaniza.

Ring Bologna — Ring sausage of beef and pork, finely emulsified, smoked and poached, a speciality of Pennsylvania and Ohio, inherited from the Pennsylvania Dutch community. Sliced cold or pan-fried.

Saucisse de caribou (Alaska) — Wild caribou meat minced with pork fatback, pepper and juniper berries, then smoked over alder wood. A tradition of the Athabaskan indigenous communities of Alaska.

Smoked sausage du Texas — Smoked sausage of beef and pork over mesquite or post oak, a signature of central Texan BBQ culture, inherited from German and Czech butchers. Distinct from the Cajun sausages of Louisiana.

Souse (Deep South) — Head cheese with vinegar and chilli, cased or moulded, a tradition of the Southern states inherited from the African-American community charcuteries.

Venison sausage — Fresh sausage made from deer or roe deer mixed with pork fatback, widely found in the states of the Midwest, the South, and the Rockies. Prepared as a family after the November hunting season, with many recipes of Bavarian or Polish descent handed down through generations.

Overseas France (Antilles)

Boudin antillais — Creole blood sausage of pig’s blood, Antillean chilli, spring onion and thyme, eaten as a starter at the Christmas and Carnival festivals in Guadeloupe and Martinique. A French tradition transformed by the Caribbean spices.

Haiti

Boudin san — Haitian blood sausage made with pig’s blood, rice and scotch bonnet chilli. Served with sandwich bread or fried, a speciality of the markets of Port-au-Prince, a Creole variant of the French boudin adapted to the Caribbean chilli.

Mexico

Chorizo de Oaxaca — Oaxacan chorizo with chile negro and mole negro sauce (a marriage of dark chocolate, dried chillies and spices). It presents a more complex, deeper flavour than standard chorizo, which is lightly dried before sale at the markets of Oaxaca.

Chorizo verde (Toluca) — Variant with tomatillos, fresh herbs (epazote, coriander) and green chillies, a speciality of Toluca in the State of Mexico. Distinctive green colour owing to the base ingredients.

Chorizo yucatèque — Yucatán variant with recado rojo (a blend of achiote, oregano, cumin and bitter orange), with a pronounced Maya influence, milder and more scented than the chorizo of northern Mexico.

Longaniza de Valladolid — Variant of the Mexican longaniza of Valladolid (Yucatán), smoked, with achiote and habanero chilli. Regarded as one of the best longanizas of the country.

Moronga — Mexican blood sausage made with pig’s blood, green chilli, onion, and mint. Eaten in the taquerías (street restaurants) and on the popular markets. It joins the use of blood to the stuffing inherited from Spanish charcuterie.

Paraguay

Chorizo paraguayo — Fresh sausage of pork and beef with oregano and chilli, a fixture of the Paraguayan asado, eaten at Sunday family gatherings.

Morcilla paraguaya — Blood sausage made with pig’s blood, rice, and local herbs (perejil, parsley, cebolla de mojo), creamy texture, served hot with boiled cassava.

Peru

Relleno — Peruvian blood sausage, stuffed into a wide hog casing: pig’s or ox blood, rice, onion and fat, lifted with ají amarillo (yellow chilli), mint (hierbabuena), garlic and cumin, with a hint of sugar. Boiled, then sliced and fried, it is the soul of the Sunday desayuno criollo (breakfast), served with camote (sweet potato) and bread, or with potatoes; in a sandwich, it becomes the pan con relleno. The ají amarillo sets it apart from the other Andean blood sausages, where mint is common but the Peruvian chilli is absent.

Uruguay

Morcilla dulce uruguaya — Uruguayan variant of pig’s blood, raisins, walnuts and orange, a Basque inheritance shared with neighbouring Argentina, but slightly sweeter.

Venezuela

Chorizo venezolano — Fresh pork sausage with sweet paprika and ají dulce (a non-hot Venezuelan sweet pepper), grilled and served in arepas (maize cakes). Less hot than its Mexican and Spanish cousins.

Morcilla venezolana — Blood sausage of Caracas made with pig’s blood, rice, and ají dulce, served at breakfast with arepas (maize cakes) and fresh white cheese.

Central America

Chorizo guatemalteco — Fresh Guatemalan sausage of pork, chile guaque and grilled tomato, scented with achiote and cinnamon. A pinch of spearmint is the signature of the traditional versions, notably in the region of Carchá (Alta Verapaz) where the colorada variant is renowned.

Chorizo hondureño — Honduran sausage, milder than its Mexican and Salvadoran cousins, with achiote, cumin, oregano and paprika. Served in the baleadas (filled wheat tortillas) and the desayuno catracho (the hearty Honduran breakfast).

Chorizo salvadoreño — Fresh Salvadoran pork sausage with paprika, annatto (local achiote), cumin and oregano, lifted with a dash of vinegar. The Cojutepeque variant is the most famous, served in pupusas (flatbread) or grilled on its own.

Chorizo tableño (Panama) — Chorizo emblematic of the Panamanian province of Los Santos (the town of Las Tablas), prepared with pork and beef, red wine, and achiote, then artisanally smoked. A flagship product of Panamanian charcuterie, folded into the arroz frito con chorizo tableño and the empanadas.

Chorizo tico (Costa Rica) — Costa Rican sausage of pork and beef spiced with chile dulce (the local sweet pepper), milder than its Central American cousins. Ubiquitous in the country’s sodas (popular eateries), as arroz con chorizo or in a gallo (a rolled tortilla).

Brunei

Belutak — Fermented beef sausage of Brunei, one of the rare charcuterie traditions of the Muslim Malay world, where the neighbouring fermented sausages are almost always of pork. It joins beef and its fat, sometimes trimmings, salted and lifted with garlic, chilli and spices, then stuffed into beef or buffalo casing. Unlike simple drying, it undergoes a fermentation, which gives it a pronounced sweet-and-sour taste. It is fried before serving, with rice or ambuyat (a sago paste that serves as the national dish). It is associated with festivals, notably Eid al-Adha.

Myanmar

Kayah sausage — Sausage of Kayah State (eastern Myanmar), of fatty pork and a local Kayah pepper that permeates its aromatic profile. Cold-smoked over a wood fire, it is served grilled with traditional rice wine (kaung yay).

Cambodia

Twa ko (ត្វាគោ) — Cambodian sausage traditionally fermented with beef — ko means beef in Khmer — sometimes with pork or a mix, with added cooked rice that contributes to the fermentation and gives the product its characteristic sharp note. The aromatic profile rests on galangal and garlic, generally completed by fish sauce and chilli. Open-air drying for two to three days develops the acidity. Often associated with the province of Battambang, it also exists in a twa ko kroeung variant, scented with lemongrass. Served grilled with rice and green papaya salad (bok lahong).

China

A technical clarification concerning China (and certain related Asian sausages). The Chinese charcuterie tradition distinguishes the fresh sausage (the rarer) from the open-air-dried sausage — called xiangchang (香肠) or lap cheong (腊肠) — which accounts for the overwhelming majority of production. This dried sausage is not a dry sausage in the European sense: it undergoes no acidifying lactic fermentation, does not descend in ‘water activity’ to the microbiologically stable threshold, and is not ready-to-eat. The health authorities (the Centre for Food Safety of Hong Kong, the USDA for imported products) classify it as a ‘raw cured sausage ’, imposing obligatory cooking before eating — steaming, pan-cooking, or joint cooking with rice in a traditional clay pot. It is therefore treated in this book on the same footing as a fresh Spanish chorizo or a Basque chistorra, whose status as a dried product meant to be cooked it shares.

Anchang jiang xiangchang (安昌酱腊肠) — Soy-sauce-dried sausage from the water town of Anchang (Shaoxing, Zhejiang), marinated in the sauce of the Renchang Sauce Garden, which has been in operation since 1892. Dried in the open air during the twelfth lunar month, when the streets are covered with it. Intangible cultural heritage of Shaoxing since 2010.

Bairouxue chang (白肉血肠) — Blood sausage of the Chinese North-East (Heilongjiang, Jilin) mixing chopped white meat into the blood forcemeat. Poached, then served sliced with fermented sauerkraut and boiled pork in the winter Manchu cooking.

Gaobu aizai chang (高埗矮仔肠) — Cantonese dried sausage of Gaobu (Dongguan), recognisable by its short, stubby form of 2 to 3 cm. By local tradition, its creator, at the end of the Qing dynasty, shortened and thickened his sausages, which, too long, dragged on the ground while being peddled; this silhouette became his signature. Sun-dried and cooked whole, without cutting, it develops a texture that bursts on the palate (baojiang).

Guan chang (贯肠) — Dark-red fresh-meat Beijing sausage, fried in fat and served with a garlic sauce. A Ming-dynasty street snack, still sold in the xiaochi (street food) of Beijing's Niujie district.

Hunan làcháng (湖南腊肠) — Dried sausage of Hunan, saltier and spicier than its Cantonese cousin, scented with chilli and garlic then smoked over pine wood and tea leaves. Cut into lengths in stir-fries with smoked pork and cabbage.

Rugao xiangchang (如皋香肠) — Dried sausage from Jiangsu, produced in Rugao since the Tongzhi era (1862–1875), seasoned with salt, sugar, soy sauce, ginger juice, and sorghum liquor (baijiu). Its reputation earned it the style name ru-shi (如式), coined by analogy with the Cantonese style guang-shi (广式) to which it was judged comparable. It illustrates the northern tradition of the Chinese dried sausage, distinct from the dominant, sweeter Cantonese model.

Saucisse du Yunnan — Minced pork with local spices (Sichuan pepper, cao guo) and possibly blood, smoked over pine or cypress wood in the mountain villages of Yunnan. The ethnic minorities of the province (Hani, Dai, Bai) developed distinct variants.

Wuzhou làcháng (梧州腊肠) — Dried sausage of Guangxi, heir to the Cantonese lap cheong, of an elongated cylindrical form and a wrinkled skin. Chinese national geographical indication since 2008. Steamed over rice or stir-fried with vegetables, spread to Hong Kong, Macau and South-East Asia.

Yāxuè dàcháng (鸭血大肠) — Blood sausage made with duck blood and glutinous rice, stuffed into a wide hog casing, a speciality of Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Sliced and dropped into the Nanjing soup yāxuè fěnsī tāng (duck’s blood, vermicelli, offal).

Yun cheong / Cantonese liver sausage (膶腸) — a Cantonese dried pork sausage enriched with duck liver, darker and meatier than the standard lap cheong. It belongs to the heritage of lap mei, the ensemble of the Cantonese winter charcuteries, recognised as the intangible cultural heritage of Hong Kong in 2014. The Yung Kee house, a famous Hong Kong goose roastery founded in 1942, developed, at the end of the 1970s, a premium goose-liver version, judged finer than duck liver. Eaten in slices on steamed rice, in particular in the bo zai fan (clay-pot rice) and during the Lunar New Year festivals.

Korea

Abai-sundae (아바이순대) — A variant of the Korean sundae, introduced to Sokcho by refugees from North Hamgyeong who arrived during the Korean War. Stuffed into the large intestine, filled with glutinous rice and tofu rather than transparent vermicelli, denser than the Seoul version.

Baegam-sundae (백암순대) — A variant of the Korean sundae originating at the Baegam cattle market (Yongin, Gyeonggi), where it has been served since the 1940s. Stuffed into a pig’s small intestine, finer than the abai-sundae, it stands out by a filling in which chopped vegetables, tofu and meat dominate, with a reduced proportion of blood. Steamed, served sliced with a peppered salt.

Byeongcheon-sundae (병천순대) — Chungcheong version named after the town of Byeongcheon, marked by a higher proportion of blood and a filling in which vegetables win out over vermicelli. Its pedestrian sundae street is one of Cheonan's gastronomic arteries.

Jeju-sundae (제주순대) — A Jeju Island variant of pig’s blood, bound with buckwheat and barley in place of mainland vermicelli, denser and more rustic. Prepared from the local black pork heuk-dwaeji, an indigenous breed traditionally raised in Jeju. Served in slices in the soup sundae-guk.

Kaesong-sundae (개성순대) — A variant of the sundae from the historic town of Kaesong (North Korea, the former capital of Goryeo), with a filling particularly rich in minced pork and transparent vermicelli. Noted for the fineness of its seasoning, it survives in South Korea through the recipes of families displaced by the war.

Ojingeo-sundae (오징어순대) — A Marine variant from Gangwon in which the casing is replaced by a whole squid filled with a mixture of chopped tentacles, rice, and vegetables. Steamed, sliced. An atypical case of ‘marine’ stuffing within the sundae family.

Indonesia

Kidu-kidu — Traditional sausage of the Karo Batak of North Sumatra, of finely minced pork with andaliman spices (the local Zanthoxylum pepper), stuffed into a hog casing. Poached in barely simmering water, then grilled over charcoal. Served in slices, with the gota sauce of pig’s blood and andaliman (a wild berry), at family festivals and in the lapo (Batak eateries).

Singaraja lapciong — Balinese sausage, passed down from Chinese immigrants who settled in Singaraja, the former northern port of entry for Bali, and made for about a century. Hand-cleaned hog casings, fat and lean cut by knife, sun-dried. It is distinct from the Balinese urutan and the Cantonese lap cheong.

Japan

Tokachi wiener (十勝ウインナー) — Japanese scalded sausage produced in the Tokachi plain, in Hokkaido, the principal pig-farming region of Japan since the start of the twentieth century. The product belongs to the diffusion of German-type charcuterie initiated in Japan from the 1910s (see the Narashino camp anecdote, Historical anecdotes chapter). Today, essentially industrial, sold sliced in bentō or grilled at the yakiniku (Japanese barbecue), it is not regarded as a codified heritage speciality.

Laos

Sai gkok (ໄສ້ກ້ອກ) — Laotian sausage made with fermented pork and glutinous rice, lightly soured, eaten grilled with green papaya salad (tam mak houng). A distinct cousin of the Thai sai krok, with its own Lao identity.

Som mu — Fresh Laotian sausage, fermented with pork, shredded rind and cooked glutinous rice, wrapped in banana leaves or cling film, then fermented for three to five days before eating, raw or grilled. Distinct from the sai gkok by a more advanced fermentation and by the systematic presence of shredded rind, which gives it its characteristic rubbery texture. Often attached to the same family as the Thai naem and the Vietnamese nem chua.

Macau

Chouriço macaense — A Macanese adaptation of the Portuguese chourIiço, mixing pork, Japanese or Chinese soy sauce, Cantonese rice wine fan-chau, garlic, and a colourant. Sun-dried, it enters the tacho, a Macanese stew that marries Portuguese enchidos and Cantonese lap mei.

Philippines

Chorizo de Macao — Filipino dry sausage made with pork, garlic, and star anise (or the anise liqueur anisado). Despite its evocative name, it comes neither from Macau nor from China: it is a creation of the Chinese-Filipinos of Binondo, an adaptation of the lap cheong by the addition of Chinese spices such as star anise. Unlike the other longganisas, it has a drier texture and is paired with pancit (a fried-noodle dish) and siopao (steamed buns).

Longganisa de Cebu — A regional variant of the Filipino longganisa, treated in a main entry; sweet-savoury with brown sugar and garlic, emblematic of Cebu and the Visayas. Served at breakfast with garlic fried rice and a fried egg, it stands apart from its northern cousins by a sweeter, less vinegary profile.

Longganisa de Lucban (Quezon) — Highly scented variant of the province of Quezon, with garlic, oregano and cane vinegar. Famous at the Pahiyas festival (the harvest festival), it features a skin naturally coloured with paprika and a rounded rather than elongated shape, which sets it apart from the longganisas of other regions of the Philippines.

Longganisa de Pampanga — Sweet-savoury variant of the province of Pampanga, of minced pork, garlic, muscovado sugar (unrefined cane sugar) and rice wine, which caramelises in cooking, giving the sausage its glossy brown coat. It represents the hamonado (sweet) profile, as opposed to the recado (savoury-garlicky) profile of the northern longganisas. It is one of the most eaten of the regional longganisas.

Longganisa de Vigan (Ilocos) — A very garlicky and vinegary variant from Ilocos Norte, heavily spiced and lightly smoked, distinct from the sweet longganisas of Pampanga and Cebu for its assertive, rustic character that brings the Filipino longganisa closer to its original Iberian cousin.

Pinuneg — Ilocano blood sausage made from pig’s blood, glutinous rice, and ginger, stuffed into hog casing and then steamed. A speciality of Ilocos (northern Luzon), eaten at village festivals.

Taiwan

Gaoliang sausage (高粱香腸) — Pork sausage scented with the sorghum wine of Kinmen (gaoliang), an island speciality of the Kinmen archipelago. An intense alcoholic note that sets it apart from the mainland sausages.

Xiangchang taïwanais (台灣香腸) — Sweet-savoury pork sausage with rice wine and five-spice, sweeter and shorter than the Cantonese lap cheong. Unsmoked, unlike its mainland cousin, it is grilled in the night markets (yèshì) of Taipei and Kaohsiung.

Thailand

Mu yor (หมูยอ) — aAThai-Isan adaptation of the Vietnamese chả lụa, introduced by Vietnamese immigration, whose name keeps the word giò (ham in Vietnamese). Pork pounded in a mortar to an elastic paste, then wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. Having entered Thai cooking, it is eaten there notably in a salad (yam mu yor).

Sai krok Phuket (ไส้กรอกภูเก็ต) — Fermented sausage of southern Thailand, spicier than the sai krok Isan, influenced by Malay and Peranakan cooking, scented with lemongrass and galangal.

Timor-Leste

Chouriço timorais — Chouriço of Portuguese tradition introduced to Timor during colonisation, kept after independence as an ingredient of the Timorese feijoada (a bean-and-meat stew). A local adaptation to the chillies and spices of South-East Asia, while keeping the direct Iberian kinship.

Vietnam

The Vietnamese charcuterie tradition rests largely on the family of giò and chả, finely beaten meat pastes wrapped in banana leaves, then poached or steamed, sometimes simply moulded. For want of stuffing into a casing, these preparations stand at the edge of this work’s perimeter, on the side of the products shaped without a casing; they appear here because Vietnamese usage classes them without hesitation among the sausages. The lạp xưởng escapes this reservation: the only one of the group to be cased and dried, it is a direct heir of the Cantonese lap cheong.

Chả bò — Vietnamese beef sausage with lemongrass and chilli, rolled in a banana leaf and grilled over charcoal. A speciality of the street cooking of Hội An and central Vietnam, cousin of the giò bò.

Chả Huế — Imperial variant of the chả lụa from Huế, rich in whole black peppercorns and garlic, more strongly marked than the standard northern version. Steamed in a banana leaf, like its cousin, it is particularly well-suited to the soup bún bò Huế. A rustic profile of central Vietnam.

Chả quế — A variant of chả lụa scented with powdered Saigon cinnamon, fried on the surface after steaming, with a characteristic golden-brown coating. Sliced thin over steamed rice, in the bánh cuốn or as a garnish for bánh mì. An aromatic profile of southern Vietnam.

Giò thủ (Giò xào) — Vietnamese Tết head cheese, mixing ears, snout and tongue of pork with black mushrooms, garlic, black pepper and nuoc-mam. Poached, cased in a banana leaf or moulded, then set as a jelly by the pig’s natural collagen. A northern tradition, served cold in slices with fish-brine pickles (dưa món) or as a garnish for bánh mì.

Lạp xưởng — Dried sausage of southern Vietnam, the local equivalent of the Cantonese lap cheong, with which it shares the technique of air salting-drying over 1 to 5 days, but lifted with Mai Quế Lộ liquor (rose and five-spice). Imperatively cooked before eating, chiefly in the xôi lạp xưởng (glutinous rice with sausage) and the bánh chưng of Tết (glutinous rice cake).

Sinophone South-East Asia

Ngoh hiang (五香) / Lor bak — Roll of minced pork with five-spice, sometimes mixed with prawns, stuffed into a sheet of dried tofu skin (fu pi) rather than a casing. Steamed then fried, served sliced with a sweet sauce. A Hokkien and Teochew tradition spread throughout Sinophone South-East Asia (Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, under the name bak kien, the Philippines, under the name kikiam).

Réunion

Saucisse fumée réunionnaise — Creole pork sausage, a relative of the boudin créole pimenté (see the corresponding entry), with which it shares its origin, but belonging to fresh charcuterie rather than to blood use. Seasoned in the Creole manner (garlic, onion, spring onion, ginger, turmeric, bird’s-eye chilli), it is stuffed then boucané, that is, smoked for several hours over a wood fire (lychee, longan or guava), woods that give Réunion its own smoking, where mainland charcuterie uses beech. It is the support for the rougail saucisse, the island's most widespread dish, in which it is cut into lengths and simmered with tomato, onion and chilli. It is also found fresh, unsmoked.

Sri Lanka

Lingus — Sri Lankan sausage whose name comes from the Portuguese linguiça, a lexical inheritance of the Portuguese occupation of Ceylon between 1505 and 1658. The product ceased to be artisanal and became an everyday industrial food, carried by the Elephant House brand (Ceylon Cold Stores, founded in 1866), and today it is available in pork, beef and chicken versions, sometimes lifted with kochchi chilli. It is eaten pan-fried in slices at breakfast or as short eats in the afternoon.

Australia and New Zealand

Kransky (Australia–New Zealand) — Australian–New Zealand adaptation of the Slovenian Kranjska klobasa, introduced by the Central European migrants after the Second World War. Smoked and heavily garlicky, it has become a classic of the Australian barbie and the New Zealand summer barbecue.