East and South-East Asia
15 entriesThe sausages of this zone are not European imports. Chinese dried sausages are attested from the first centuries of our era, with a detailed description in the Qimin Yaoshu (around AD 544), a Chinese agricultural encyclopaedia contemporary with the compilation of the De re coquinaria in the late Roman world. The lactic fermentation of raw meat, practised in Thailand and Vietnam for generations, rests on a technical mastery whose principles are comparable to those of the independently developed Mediterranean cheese fermentations. The chapter ‘The origins’ illustrates this antiquity.
The zone is marked by the coexistence, within a continuous geographical space, of very different logics of charcuterie tradition. China developed preservation by desiccation and by using alcohol. Thailand and Vietnam have placed the lactic fermentation of raw meat at the heart of their traditions, producing preparations whose marked acidity has no parallel in European charcuterie. Indonesia folded the spices of its ceremonial cooking (galangal, turmeric, lemongrass) into sausages whose profile is recognisable as Balinese from the first mouthful. These traditions do not descend from one another; they were developed in parallel, with documented exchanges.
Contacts with Europe left traces, without constituting their principal origin. The French presence in Indochina in the nineteenth century may have refined certain techniques of Vietnamese charcuterie, but the chả lụa, a pounded pork emulsion cooked in steam, is an old preparation that does not derive directly from the Bolognese mortadella. The Spanish presence in the Philippines gave rise to a family of longanisas whose present regional diversity no longer resembles the Iberian model. In each case, the imported product was transformed in one or two generations.
Japan constitutes the most precisely dated case of transfer. In 1918, an official of the National Institute of Animal Industry, Yoshifusa Iida, was sent to the German prisoner-of-war camp at Narashino to learn charcuterie techniques from the master charcutier Karl Jahn and his companions, who had been interned since 1915. The addition of soy sauce, mirin, and dashi to the basic German technique gave the Japanese sausage its own seasoning, and awareness of its Germanic origin has almost entirely disappeared.
The documentation of this zone is more fragmentary than that of the European sections: written sources on the Asian charcuterie traditions are less accessible in Western languages, geographical protections of the PGI type are almost absent (except for China), and the traceability of orally transmitted preparations is difficult to establish. This imbalance does not reflect a lesser richness of the traditions concerned.
Lap Cheong (臘腸)
Cantonese dried sausage of sweet-savoury taste, scented with rice wine and soy sauce.
Sichuan sausage (四川香腸)
Sausage dried and smoked with Sichuan pepper and chilli, spicier and less sweet than the Cantonese lap cheong. Sichuan pepper produces the numbing (málà) characteristic of the province’s cooking.
Harbin sausage/ Hongchang (哈尔滨红肠)
Smoked pork sausage with garlic, introduced to Harbin in 1909 by the Russian Churin factory. The technology transfer is precisely documented. It is sliced cold and eaten with dalieba, Harbin's Russian sourdough bread.
Gyurma / Tibetan sausage (藏香腸)
Blood sausage of yak (or sheep) with tsampa (roasted barley flour), stuffed into a yak casing. A high-altitude preparation, bound to the winter slaughter in the Tibetan nomad camps.
Sundae (순대)
Korean blood sausage with sweet potato vermicelli (dangmyeon), pig’s blood, and vegetables.
Arabiki (粗びき)
Coarsely minced pork sausage, lightly smoked and scented with Japanese condiments. Ubiquitous in the konbini (Japanese convenience stores), bentos and Japanese home cooking.
Gyoniku Sōsēji (魚肉ソーセージ)
Japanese fish sausage, stuffed into a synthetic film, then poached at high temperature for keeping at room temperature.
Longganisa (Longaniza Filipina)
A family of sausages, of which each region of the Philippines has its own version. The name descends from the Spanish longaniza; the contents scarcely resemble it any longer.
Urutan
Smoked Balinese pork sausage, spiced with galangal, turmeric and lemongrass. Specific to the Hindu community of Bali, it is associated with ceremonies and with babi guling (roast suckling pig).
Sai Ua (ไส้อั่ว)
Sausage of northern Thailand, whose forcemeat contains lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and red curry paste. On the night markets of Chiang Mai, it is grilled and sliced to order.
Shan sausage / Sai long phik (ရှမ်းဆောင်)
Pork sausage with fresh herbs of Shan State, Burmese cousin of the Thai sai ua. Grilled over charcoal and served with glutinous rice.
Sai Krok Isan (ไส้กรอกอีสาน)
Fermented sausage of north-eastern Thailand. The pork and the cooked rice ferment naturally over a few days, developing an acidity that constitutes the very identity of the product.
Naem (แหนม)
Sharp fermented sausage from northern and north-eastern Thailand, made from raw pork and glutinous rice. Eaten raw (after fermentation) or grilled. It differs from the sai krok Isan by its composition and its degree of fermentation.
Chả Lụa / Giò Lụa
Pounded pork emulsion, steamed in banana leaves. Vietnamese tradition traces its making to the sixteenth century, in the village of Ước Lễ near Hanoi.
Nem chua (Nem cái)
Raw fermented sausage of minced pork and rind, wrapped in banana leaves. The lactic fermentation, of three to five days, produces its characteristic acidity.